3/22/06: Siem Reap

Day 5. Angkor Wat is known as one of the largest and best preserved monuments at the site and is the only temple to remain religiously significant. Combining the styles of both the temple mountain and later galleried temples, its design is intended to represent Mount Meru, home of the Hindu gods. Its architectural composition of symmetry, purity, and harmony help render it one of the finest achievements anywhere. Unfortunately, the high number of uninformed tourists that visit each day has resulted in damage to this early 12th century symbol of Cambodia. For example, constantly touching the reliefs and walls turn them shiny from the oils on the skin.

The Roluos group consists of three temples dating back to the late 9th century and relating to the ancient capital Hariharalaya.



Lolei - An island temple that is now dry. [Left (2)]

Prah Ko - "Sacred Ox". First of the Roluos group. [Right (1)]



Bakong - The proportions of its tiers make Bakong the only pyramid that could hold processions and festivals. First realization of a large architectural ensemble in sandstone. This area is one of the poorest in the region and donations to the school (two semi-outdoors classrooms) are always welcome. [Below (4)]



Note: The most comprehensive and, by far, the best website I found regarding Cambodian monuments was http://www.theangkorguide.com/text.htm, a translation of Maurice Glaize's Monuments of the Angkor Group.










We also visited a workshop where orphans are taken in and taught leatherwork. Proceeds from all goods sold there are put towards orphan care. [Top: First (2)] After touring the Roluos group, we also went to Artisans Angkor, a high-end shop with more expensive souvenirs. However, this store's products come from an art school in which children, especially those from poor, rural areas, are given a scholarship to learn/specialize in either painting, gold leafing, sculpture, or carving once they have passed a test for artistic talent. During training, they are only allowed to copy predetermined works to sell in the store (they also have a program for deaf children who are taught sign language in addition to their craft of choice). After they graduate, they are allowed to either leave and make their own living elsewhere, or to continue with the store (they pay a commission, but are allowed total artistic freedom). [Top: Second (2)] After Artisans Angkor, we went to the huge indoor market. I think most people had a really good time here bargaining and getting tons and tons of souvenirs. [Beginning of Angkor description: Left and Right]

3/21-22/06: Angkor Wat

Day 4 + 5. I went to Angkor Wat.

3/21/06: Siem Reap

Day 4. I also visited:
1. Ta Prohm - "The Brahma Ancestor". Where Indiana Jones and Lara Croft Tomb Raider were filmed. Chosen to demonstrate a temple in its "natural state" as one of the most imposing and best merged with the jungle. [Left (1) and Right (2)]





2. Ta Keo - "Ancestor Keo" or Prasat Keo, "Crystal Tower". Work ceased shortly after the start of ornamentation for unknown reasons. [Left (1) and Right (1)]

3. Thommanon - Built at the end of Saryavarman II's reign. Took advantage of the natural characteristics of sandstone, rather than imitating carvings of wood. [Right (1)]





4. Banteay Kdei - "Citadel of Chambers". Ruin is quite advanced. Demonstrates at least two styles of architecture.


5. Balloon Ride - Before visiting Angkor Wat, some people say it's better to view it from above. It only goes up and down and lasts about 10 minutes, but apparently one year all the people rushed to the Angkor Wat side and tipped the whole thing over, dumping everyone out. I'm told that no one died. [Left (1) and Bottom (4)]

3/20/06: Siem Reap, Cambodia

Day 3. Now begins the touring of temples. The temples were all pretty amazing. But after a while I wondered why they all ended up looking very similar to one another. It turns out that it was because one was built as a small tester model of another, or as a copy/replica. Also, there are a lot of doors. And everyone is an artist, so everyone takes pictures of these cool doors. Anyway, as for the history aspect of these temples, since I was in a tour group from Taiwan, I unfortunately didn't understand everything- turns out that words describing temples and history are much more difficult than everyday words and are mostly out of my vocabulary range. My mom translated some of it, but some of my descriptions are from the internet. It really added meaning to the places I went, even after the fact. But, that having been said, I know that no one likes to read and less people actually like history, so I'm going to highlight what I consider to be the most interesting places if I had to choose, or the places I'd go if I were in some kind of race.













1. Preah Khan - "holy sword". Built on the site of King Jayavarman VII's victory over the invading Chams. Commemorates his father the same way that Ta Prohm (see Day 4) commemorates his mother. Both temples are largely unrestored and are covered in vegetation in respect for the ruined nature of the temple. Site includes 430 other shrines. [above (4)]



2. Neak Pean - "entwined serpents". An artificial island when filled with water (I went while it was dry). Shaped like a hospital cross, each of the four ends contains a water spout representing a horse, a lion, an elephant, and a man. Water eminating from these spouts is said to be holy and cure illness. In front of the middle island at one end is a horse statue with human legs, which is said to represent the myth: people who had been flooded were saved when Buddha changed into a horse and took them away. [Left (1) and Right (1)]







3. Ta Som - "Ancestor Som". Exactly the same external enclosures of Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei (see Day 4). Now known for the giant trees that have taken over parts of the temple. [Left (1) and Right (1)]





4. East Mebon - Temple complex was built by Rajendravarman on an island in the middle of the East Baray, although the water is now dried up. The resevoir originally served to regulate river flow and to irrigate crops. [Below: first (2)]
5. Pre Rup - "Turn the Body". Similar to East Mebon. One of the last "realizations of the 'temple-mountain'". The courtyard center holds a king's ashes/grave and the building to its right supposedly holds the king's real foot, although I only saw a foot statue. [Below: third and fourth (2)]























6. Banteay Srei - "Woman's Citadel". It is considered to be one of the top temples; the carvings are said to be as ornate and beautiful as those of wood, but made from stone. I think they used red sandst
one, whereas in some of the other temples, they used white sandstone. This was one of my favorite places. [Above (4)]

7. Prasat Kravan - Surrounded by a moat and now in a state of ruin from large tree roots.

8. Terrace of the Elephants - A structure raised high above ground for the king to look down upon a large field where elephant fights were conducted. Adorned with many elephant decorations. [Below: first (3)]











9. Phimeanakas - "Vimana Celestial Palace". Hindu temple built during the reign of Rajendravarman II in the form of a pyramid with three tiers. According to Wikipedia: This site is often infested by dangerous groups of monkeys who attack visitors and tourists." I didn't see any, but there are random monkeys roaming around town and Angkor Wat that tourists really loved to try and get close for what I'm sure are amazing pictures of someone getting rabies.

10. Terrace of the Leper King - There are myths that one or several kings had leprosy. I might have missed this part of the tour somehow, but it's on the itinerary.

11. Bayon - Located in the center of Angkor Thom (last and most enduring capital city of Khmer empire), it was repeatedly revised and had four phases of construction as a result. There are Buddha faces at the four cardinal points on top of the towers. [Above: last picture (1), Below (4)]











12. Phnom Bakheng - Despite being one of the more difficult places to get to Phnom Bakheng was absolutely teeming with people. First, you climb a mountain to get to the base of the temple (or ride an elephant). Then, to climb to the top of the temple, you need to climb several tiers of amazingly steep and narrow (about 4-5 inches wide) stairs .












It was a really long, hot day. But today (the day I posted this) in Taiki it's fucking freezing outside (they say perhaps 2 more months... so until JUNE... of snow). So I made peanut butter cookies. They were delicious.